Wednesday, March 30, 2011

UPDATE on WAX: HOW, WHY, WHAT???

UPDATE on New Technique used in waxing.
I wanted to answer a few questions 
regarding my previous post. 

Formula:
20% minwax oil based stain
80% Howard's Feed n Wax
Use even a little less stain when using a very dark color.
I found these both at Home Depot.

  This is a wax formula so it protects like wax. 
Like all waxes, 
you may need to redo the tops of pieces 
a few times a year 
or even once a month for heavily trafficked tops! 

My dining room table top is a tinted wax on plain wood,
with creamy painted legs.
 Love it! Love how it wears.
Black blob on table is my very needy kitty.
 
I would just use the plain 
Feed n Wax (or your preferred wax) 
for a touch up as needed.

Here is a little lesson on how wax works:
There are emollients or dissolvent like deals in the wax.
(whatever!  with the right word here)
"It" is in all waxes, the smelly stuff.  
I am very technical!

Because of this "it", you can apply wax, 
otherwise they would be too hard. 
These ("it") evaporate...
with the yucky smell the emit, 
thank goodness, 
as the wax cures, 
leaving you with a hard finish.
You may buff to a high gloss 
or lightly rub for a more matte finish.

When you reapply the wax,
"it" dissolves the old, 
removing some of the old wax  
and then reworks what is left into the new wax.  
 The beauty of this is that you do not get build up.

So let's say you hate the color of wax 
you used in the finish...
rub off using a clear or plain wax.
If you hate the wax, 
you can wipe with mineral spirit to remove.
(Hasn't worked well for me...just saying.)

I use a soft brush for application 
and soft rag for wiping excess and then buffing.
Now I am going to tell you that 
tinted waxes can be a bit tricky.
Practice.

I love a tinted wax because it adds 
patina 
to a newly painted piece. 
It is what makes it rich, layered and oh so lovely.
Plain wax or clear protects and deepens the color a bit.

Experiment with tints too.
The color of stain or tint can 
really change your paint color.
An oak color stain or tint 
makes a blue paint a bit more of a robins egg blue...
yellowish tint added to blue makes it more green.

I love this new formula because of the ease.
I have been using wax, primarily Briwax, 
found at better furnishing stores,
for 12 years now.
It is work but the results are beautiful.

Another hint: 
Wax melts in heat...like a hot summer day of sitting in my garage,
the wax turns to liquid. 
MUCH easier to apply and work in this form.  
You can set your Briwax in a tub of very hot water so it goes to a more 
soft, liquid consistency and it is easier to apply and manipulate. 
It is a combustible product so do not heat on a stove or get near ANY flame.
Remember a little goes a long way.
The Howard's Feed n Wax is already in a liquid-like form
but I will always use my Briwax too!

I am hoping you find this new formula 
a bit less (always good)
WORK.

Molly

Whew...long winded, 
I could talk all day about this huh?

48 comments:

  1. Thanks for all the details. Really appreciate them as I like new product and am all for less work. My arms are not my strongest muscles. Really enjoy your blog and all the tips and pictures. Connie

    ReplyDelete
  2. I just found your blog when i was over at Miss Mustard Seed. I read your coment and had to come over to your site and check it out. Thanks so much. I am going to try and find those products. I live in Canada.

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  3. What great tips! I've never used wax before but have been wanting to for some time. Thanks for stopping by and commenting!!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Thank you for explaining the whole wax thing! I'm working on a piece that would look great with your wax technique - I just hope I can pull it off! Can't wait to give it a shot! Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  5. I went to our home depot in Ottawa but they no longer sell it. I did find a Howards product in Home Sense (Home Goods) but it is Restore All. Which i presume is not the same as you use. Do you have an alternative to Howards Feed n Wax? thanks

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  7. Hi Molly. I found your comment on Miss Mustard Seed's blog and came over to "meet" you! I'm your newest follower and Facebook fan. The way you're finishing furniture - absolutely gorgeous, by the way - seems more like the technique and products I'd be most comfortable with. I'm trying to get the nerve to get started. Been buying a few junk pieces and they're sitting there waiting on a transformation. Taunting me. For some reason, I've never been good at painting furniture. But I haven't tried in years. It's time to go for it again. Thanks for sharing your wonderful painted pieces and techniques!

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  8. Such fabulous tips, thank you!!!!
    Thanks for your visit!
    XO

    ReplyDelete
  9. I have only been using Briwax too but I have only recently used it on newly painted things and it seems to be lifting the paint even after it's cured for over a week. I am wondering if it has anything to do with using paint samples. Are the samples lacking in any type of hardener that you know of? I don't know but I will try the Feed n wax and see if it does the same. I love the briwax on my wood pieces. The sheen is just unbeatable.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Briwax has "stuff" in it (Molly Sue is rubbing off on me) that takes paint off. I found that out the hard way, too! Try a wax designed for painted furniture. I use Fiddes Supreme Wax but there are lots out there!

      Delete
  10. fyi to readers...can't rub and rub on wax or it will pull paint. brush on, let cure then buff. the more you work it the more it will likely pull paint. i work fast with a brush to apply wax and do not go back and forth a lot.

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  11. *THANK YOU!* for this info! I am still undecided on my first distressing project on our fancy kitchen table: Painting all white seems EASY PEASY! But I do like the look of the wood top and have a few other pieces I intend to make white while leaving some of the wood... Decisions, decisions!!!!

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